NOTES FROM SADACC VISIT
Southern Pakistan
Wedding shawls
Stitched by women
Forkari stitching (flower marks)
Bag- garden
Silk floss on cotton ground
Groups of women stitching together
Bokni hand embroidered (special occasions)
Flowers get denser or wider (patience)
Majority or embroidery pieces
Wedding shawls -19th century
Most collection is late 19th - 20th century
Not all about historical interest
Contemporary crafts
Bangladesh -kanfa work quilting
Cashmere European shawls -Norwich and French
South India- Kali hasti
Pen work (Cala)
Block printing and hand painting
Islamic influence as well as South Indian
Temple murals
Wax resist and block printing repeat
Gojra bright colours printing and embroidery
Sahri yarns are dyed before woven. Create coloured patterns
Technique in small West Indian rogan hot oil and pigment dribbled on- repeat but not completely even
Individual and not as commercial wobari women sheparding community- tie dye and dense embroidery
Dhariwai embroidery banned too much time
Using rick rack to create the same look but less time consuming
Torans decorative banners- glass beads form Venice
Rajasthan tell a story lighting with candle to view parts at night time
Printing by groom and embroidered by bride
Older textiles can't be touched
Manchester print
Lotus rust print
Several blocks used
Paisley motif associated with Scottish production etc
Natural dyes and natural processes
Mud resist printing
1821 gallery using Indian textiles as inspiration paper collages
Hormazd narielwalla from london
PhD in fashion
Hand cut patterns are thrown away when died
Narrative and story about a lady who travelled form Paris to India- encounters she met on the way, layers of meaning
Clothes and patterns as architectures- building hold bodies so does clothes
Dress patterns collages and block prints with gold dust- looking through French woman patterns and India
Negative space from patterns - scrap paper that pattern
Re contextualising them by making them into something else
Clothes were actually made, remade into something else
Banjar Embroidery
Eastern Sind- Saami (patchwork cotton quilt page 117)
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