Fashion Project

Boro Research

December 30, 2015

Japan's mended and patched textiles are referred to as boro, or ragged.
Boro textiles are usually sewn from nineteenth and early twentieth century rags and patches of indigo dyed cotton.  
The variety of patches on any given piece consist of  at least some hand loomed cotton indigo from old Japan. 
In most cases, the considered arrangement of patches and mending stitches is not actually planned by the maker.

http://minamitextiles.com/tag/boro/page/2/


Contextual

Trend Report thoughts

December 14, 2015


Trend Reports
- As discussed, you need to create your own trend. Give your trend a name. When do you predict that your trend going to happen, and where?

- Your trend must be believable. Think about how to use images, references to other designers/trends/streetstyle/celebrity etc to convince your reader that this trend is really going to happen.

- Remember to research your trend in a wider context, referencing designers, artists, other trends etc.

- Spend time reading professional trend reports, and present your own report in a similar way, using labelled images, mood boards etc. Your report may be longer than some of the brief summaries we see online, because yours will include detailed description of your trend and how it relates to different areas of design, as well as an explanation of why the trend will resonate with the audience at this time (eg in response to a current social issue or topic).

My Ideas
eco fashion - link this with future events or news?? > recession?
deconstructs /reconstruct
mending- visible on purpose.. this could link with my fashion project?
make do and mend > too obvious? look at fashion point of view
urban denim- street style
vintage up cycling > "trendy to be thrifty"
eco friendly and sustainable

http://www.elle.com/fashion/g8913/best-eco-friendly-fashion-brands/





"Thrifty is fashionable once more and making your own curtains and soft furnishings is the craftiest way to save money."- http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/make-do-and-mend-has-become-the-new-trend-1-4325180#ixzz3voprmuaF

"The recession has given rise to the rebirth of a “make do and mend” culture, while television programmes such as Kirstie Allsopp’s Handmade Britain have spawned a surge in the number of people taking up sewing." - http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/make-do-and-mend-has-become-the-new-trend-1-4325180#ixzz3voq4DDzm

"The recession has had a big impact. People are looking at ways of saving money and learning how to do key skills themselves. You can save quite a bit of money by making your own clothes and curtains and you can make things to suit your own taste.” -http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/make-do-and-mend-has-become-the-new-trend-1-4325180#ixzz3voqkw69N

“Making your own clothes is not cheaper now there are shops like Primark, but it is about self expression and turning away from the high street to a more local economy.”- http://www.yorkshirepost.co.uk/news/make-do-and-mend-has-become-the-new-trend-1-4325180#ixzz3votDLWqh


Make do and mend was because of the recession In world war 2... will there be a recession 2016/17?? >>> http://www.cityam.com/215831/when-will-there-be-another-recession-uk-it-could-be-sooner-you-think

"A global recession is usually defined by economists as an extended period of below-capacity growth. City puts global potential growth at 3%, but expects growth to “reach or fall below 2%” before bottoming out in 2017." - http://www.theguardian.com/business/2015/sep/09/global-recession-two-years-likely-economist-buiter

"We may be on the verge of another global recession. Patterns in economic data are showing signs of weakness, and the troubles persisting in Europe or the bubble bursting in China may be the trigger that sends the economy over the edge" http://www.investopedia.com/articles/investing/071515/6-factors-point-global-recession-2016.asp



Trend Report Research

Trend forecasting help
Geraldine Wharry from WGSN tumblr

Interiors Project

Shirley Craven

December 03, 2015

Nick mentioned to me about a relation between mine and Shirley Craven's work. I could see connections between her delicate drawings and mine and then her geometric prints and design and mine. Shirley studied at the Royal College of Art. 

Shirley Craven's work consists of big bold abstracts and eye-popping colours.
Shirley Craven’s extraordinary textiles condense the excitement of the Swinging Sixties.
Her designs are printed by Hull Traders.


http://www.textilesociety.org.uk/events/event-details.php?textile-event=137

colour

Bauhaus???

November 28, 2015

After researching Albers and Colour theory, I noticed a direct link between the colours and shapes in my work and in bauhaus inspired textiles or drawings. It has inspired me to continue to use and use only primary bright colours (initially taken from SADACC).

The Bauhaus movement began in 1919 when there was an idea of bridging the gap between art and industry by incorporating crafts and arts.  Walter Gropius stated that all crafts, including art, architecture and geometric design, should be combined and mass-produced. Gropius argued that architecture and design should reflect the new chapter in history, post World War I.  

The Bauhaus movement is distinguished by economic sensibility, simplicity and a priority on mass production. Bauhaus is an inversion of the German phrase “hausbau,” which means building house or house construction. Although Bauhaus was originally the era of mass production, I will take only the colour and geometric patterns from the movement. I will not take the mass production idea as I want there to be a certain irony and juxtaposition in my work. Whilst at SADACC I noticed the textiles were one of a kind and unique so I will take this and combine the two to create something interesting and distinctive

Interiors Project

Castle museum

November 28, 2015

Visiting the Castle Museum today for the first time this academic year was uplifting. Seeing our work being exhibited was lovely and looking at the other years' sketchbooks was actually so helpful. I wish we has a chance to see first years' sketchbooks more often as it was refreshing to see.
Our repeat lengths were hung nicely around the museum and it was nice to see members of the public admiring them.
I also used my time to look at the natural history and wildlife area to draw from the shells there and take some photographs to refresh my drawings and give me ideas.

Repeat length and ribbon (from year1)

Fashion for Passion event

Shell and project 2 visual research



Fashion Project

Tutorial with Jill

November 26, 2015

Reassurance is what I needed to help me keep pushing my ideas forward. I know I need to get my final designs done ASAP as the fashion project needs to be started soon. I told Jill I was worried about my time management and how to put my designs in to repeat as I wanted to stay away from digital printing.

For placement overview:
-Small info about Aviva and the rest critical analysis

For the interior project:
-wallpaper- look at claire coles and look at Charlotte Abraham
-think about context?- cafe/corporate space/home/audience- adolescent/children etc
-To help me with repeat... Photocopy motifs onto acetate then flip/adjust/layer up/half drop etc
-create a complex repeat by adding depth and level- add background using subtle marks from drawings etc
-make the samples a collection so they flow together

For the Fashion project:
-Begin drawings for this project- continue with shells but explore in depth
-Indigo dyeing- could experiment with discharge and resists
-Try to give myself a title for my fashion collection- like the lecturer today who worked at USP- Jane Kellock
-Look into mending/patching 
-Go to study centre- mending/darning etc
-Boro Boro book by Nuno Collection
-Try sashiko stitching with fine threads or metallic threads and explore different stitches


Interiors Project

Devore experimentations

November 26, 2015

After sublimation printing on linen polyester I decided to make the most of the double fibre fabric. If I devore over some of the colour, the colour will come through brighter and more vibrant (in theory).

I tried this, after two attempts, the devore visibly worked. It wasn't very obvious which disheartened me because of the length of time it took me to do. Doing this has reminded me how devore works and  now I want to use it again in my work as it is a simple and effective process to do.

I hand painted it on but I could possibly screen print it or block print with it to combine processes and methods??


Left top is a sample with no devore
Right top and bottom has devore on some parts (brighter and more vivid)

Interiors Project

Thinking about Context

November 25, 2015

I initially wanted to have my collection of designs for a living area featuring cushions, a quilt and an upholstered chair but my practical work right now isn't relating well. I feel like I should carry on with the path that my work is going down naturally as I don't want to force my work to go a certain way. I am doing CAD embroidery on Monday the 30th and I will reflect once I have gained some more digitally stitched samples as I have never done this before- I might love it or hate it!

I am now thinking about wallpaper designs but I am still unsure. I will research into Claire Coles as she designs embroidered wallpaper which would be interesting to do. I want to include texture in my designs as many of the pieces at SADACC had texture and nothing was ever a flat print.



Habitat
Ideas for cushions? I love the design in the lower centre!- stitched grids- geometric but includes interesting marks which could relate to shells etc?


Anthropology throws- very textured? Could I create something like this without having to weave????

Fashion Project

Gees Bend: Artist Research

November 16, 2015

An African American majority community and census-designated place in a large bend of the Alabama River in Wilcox County, Alabama.

Gee's Bend was named for Joseph Gee, an early large land owner from Halifax County, North Carolina who settled there in 1816. 
Gee brought 18 African American slaves with him and established a cotton plantation within the bend.
In 2005 the quilts created by some 45 Alabama artists, African-American women from a rural community in the Black Belt, were exhibited at Auburn’s Jule Collins Smith Museum of Fine Arts. 

There are many issues surrounding the quilts and the women who created them.



Interiors Project

Geometry in nature

November 14, 2015

After creating some lovely pieces when sublimatiion printing I realised how geometric my prints were becoming and I began to worry that I was going off on a tangent. My initial drawings were very loose and based on shells and beach debris. My prints have become very linear, I am hoping that combining my processes such as stitching and dyeing will help change this.


I began to research into geometry in nature looking at the fibonacci sequence. I found it very interesting and has helped me so so much. I think this helped me link my initial drawings to my outcomes and gives me ideas how to display my geometric designs.
I could display geometric shapes in a spiral?
I could print the disperse dyes on twisted, spiralled papers? experiment!?
I could expose a screen with detailed marks from spirals/shells and add to the negative space in between geometric shapes?


Fibonacci Golden Spiral

colour

Colour Theory and Albers: Research

November 13, 2015

There are three basic categories of colour theory that are valid and useful: The colour wheel, colour harmony, and the context of how colours are used. Colour theories create a logical structure for colour. For example, you can organise a collection of colours then place them in a circle that shows the colours in relation to each other.

Albers was one of the first modern artists to explore the psychological effects of colour and to question the nature of perception. I find his work influential as he looks at colour in depth, his paintings/studies are beautiful just as they are and I appreciate the meanings and theories behind them.


From looking at Albers' work I am inspired to look at the Bauhaus Movement as I am beginning to see connections with my project 2 interiors work. 




Digital

LIGHTBULB moment

November 07, 2015

I'm having trouble with incorporating digital processes into my work. Sublimation printing has brought on much more ideas and has excited me to move my work forward.

I could laser cut shapes/design out of brown paper with disperse dye on- then print?- has to be repeated though? how could I make this work?!?!

Print this on polyester fabric? Could use cotton polyester or linen polyester?

Layer up texture by adding resists and working with negative/ positive space.

I am interested in negative and positive space. Sometimes the marks made from drawings, collage or stitch are not as interesting as the marks that surround it (the negative space).

After researching Albers I am excited by the experimentation of combining colour and shape to see how things change. I want to include layering and experiment with opacity and overlaying. I think this could be done using photoshop.


Follow Amelia's board POSITIVE/NEGATIVE on Pinterest.

Interiors Project

SADAAC Visit again!

November 06, 2015

Visiting SADACC again has really helped me push my ideas further. It has reminded me of the processes and colours used in Indian Textiles. After doing many drawing workshops and improving my digital skills I feel like coming to SADACC again really enabled me to boost my ideas and help me combine the drawing skills and SADACC research.

I studied the Banjara style textiles hard, looking at the colour, structure and studying the stitch and embroidery closely. I saw many connections with my work which reassured me. I need to continue drawing and then begin designing to move on my work as time is running out.  

Next week I will:
Book at least half a day on CAD embroidery 
Design a small sample for CAD embroidery
Sublimation print using resists
Experiment with natural dyeing
Research mirror work in Indian Textiles- possibility for my samples? or could use foiling?


Reflection

Busy busy busy

November 02, 2015

Trying to balance the mountains of work piling up with everything else, like socialising and housework is beginning to become pretty difficult. I am trying to improve my work and make the most of my time here whilst trying to keep on top of the work that is being thrown at me left right and centre. I am determined to do better this year and get my work out into the world so I can start building connections, preparing me for life after my degree. Going to the Castle Museum workshop the other day has made me realise this.

I am attempting to improve my drawing by using different techniques and strategies. I was browsing the internet to gain inspiration (as always) and came across this article which was pretty helpful. Looking at sketchbook examples really helps me and makes me realise my work needs to have more direct connections with the pattern and shapes being made by the piece I am drawing from. I am going to draw today and keep referring back to the different drawing strategies and this other article that I also found very helpful. The second article is about creating excellent observational drawings, a point that made me think was, "keep outlines light". I realised I draw with outlines too much and not with shapes, shading and colour. I am going to add this to my never ending list of things to do and hopefully improve my drawing.

colour

Developed Geo patterns on Illustrator/Photoshop

October 27, 2015

I found the Simple Geo Print workshop with Robert incredibly helpful last week therefore I decided to develop my skills further using the same steps but putting my own twist on them. I had to use trial and error to teach myself more skills in Illustartor but I found myself beginning to create really interesting patterns.

Beginning my pattern



Experimenting with line and colour (further developing from my initial pattern)


Experimenting with colour ways, using my SADACC visit as colour inspiration (first sample). I also layered over the line pattern to develop the pattern and texture (last sample).





Fashion Project

Trend Research

October 26, 2015

For our reports project we began researching trends for a starting point. I began looking on WGSN and saved the forecasts that caught my eye or influenced me. I really liked the 'vintage' second hand patchwork trend. It intrigued me and I had an urge to reach into the computer screen to feel the textures. I researched further into "make do and mend" looking at how it is used now and how it used be used WW2. This then encouraged me to research into secondhand/charity/vintage as these are becoming increasingly popular; even so that high street brands are copying the "vintage trend".

Make Do and Mend John Lewis pamphlet WGSN
Artful Patchwork 1 WGSN
Artful Patchwork 2 WGSN
Patched Pattern WGSN
Charity Shops During Recession
The Modern Make Do and Mend BBC News
Charity Shop Tips
Make Do and Mend IWM
Clothes Rationing IWM


colour

More Project 2 research

October 22, 2015

Today we were informed on the importance of research which made me think I must do this more to help me with Project 2. Visits to archives, museums and exhibitions are so important as we learnt in first year so I am planning a visit to London in the next 2 weeks to visit the V&A Fabric of India Exhibition.

We were also informed about the resources online so I have spent some time exploring WGSN, Athens and the NUA library, searching through trend reports, ebooks and e-journals.

I found a very suited e-resource by Rosalyn Crosthwaite (below) which I have found incredibly useful towards my work linked with SADACC and indian textiles. She explores the use of traditional indian textile techniques as well as the changes made and influences from digital processes.


Preserving traditional Indian textile techniques from the effects of large-scale 21st century manufacturing

Crosthwaite, R. (2014) Preserving traditional Indian textile techniques from the effects of large-scale 21st century manufacturing [Online resource].




Research

Castle Museum workshop

October 21, 2015

I signed up to an external workshop at the Norwich Castle Museum, Build your own: Tools for sharing. This was based on the special exhibition they have currently from the 3rd of October to 3rd of January. This workshop was for creative people to extend their employability skills and other creative skills and tools.
We had lectures/workshops from 3 makers; Pete Mosley, Rita Parniczky, Seb Butcher.


Personally I found Pete Mosley's the most helpful as he spoke a lot about building your own creative business in the future. He gave so many tips and smalls steps I can start making towards life after my degree. I am determined to make the most of the resources I have now at university and explore other resources like social media and e-books. I now understand how to advertise my self and connect with people. I intend to buy Pete's book, The Art of Shouting Quietly, where he explains how creative people are shy and introvert but must get their self known to be successful. To find out what your market prefers etc Pete suggested to use blogger and track popularity and see what the audience prefers. I feel like Pete touched on things that were close to home with me and I found myself agreeing to things he said and inspired by tips he mentioned.
I spoke to Pete one to one where we discussed my hometown, Northamptonshire. He visits there for workshops and I was unaware that there were any resources to explore.
Places to consider for inspiration and workshops:
-Corby Cube
-Art trails Northants
-Portfolio innovation centre at Northampton university
-Fermyn Woods

Below is a TED Talk from Pete Mosley which touches on many points he mentioned in our talk at the Castle Museum.



I also spoke to Rita Parniczky who is a textile artist who creates woven hangings with translucent yarn. She gave me lots of tips to stay motivated and go to London exhibitions and shops to gain inspiration. She advised me to experiment now I can as I won't always have the chance after my degree. She told us to look at other artists and their CVs to see what they did after their degree to become influenced by them. I realised that I should not miss out on opportunities and I should gain knowledge when I can to become certain on what I like and don't like! I must gain experience when I can and do not limit myself to textile design, look into architecture, fine art, psychology etc. Take risks and interview my self to find out things you didn't know before.

Because London is quite expensive to travel to I want to make the most of the resources here in Norwich and in my home town, Northamptonshire to gain the best experiences possible.


Group Repeat Print Project

PRINTING DAY

October 20, 2015

Today my group printed our repeat pattern. We set up the stoppers, t-bars and repeat distance which was faster and easier than I anticipated. I feel like I have learnt a lot about time management and working under pressure today as well as learning about the basics of repeat screen printing.



Working as a team was another skill that I felt that I built on. In our group there was 4 of us which worked well when holding the screen and moving the squeegee across the screen. We evolved a system which worked well; we all mixed up one dye colour (which we had learnt to do when testing our colours a couple of weeks ago), we would take it in turns to pour the dye on to the screen, hold the squeegee and turn the hair dryers on to dry the print whilst others washed the screens. I think this is how we managed to get our print done in such good time. We managed to finish it in 5 hours which meant we had enough time for our individual colour ways. I was unsure whether I would get this done in time today because our table was booked by third years from 5 o'clock onwards. This would have meant I would have had to get our screens re exposed at a later date, luckily this was not the case. Whilst our length was being steamed we worked on our individual colours.

Group 3 metre repeat print.




I was still unsure on my colours because I had tested them out last night and was unhappy with the way they over layed each other. I had an idea of changing the layers about, I started thinking about the colours too much and was adamant the bee on our design should be yellow. I decided to change around the colours of the layers and I found that it worked quite well. Instead of sticking to the same kind of colours (for example keeping a yellow tone on the original yellow screen with the bees and flowers) I completely changed my way of thinking to make a more investing abstract print. I really love the way this has turned out and I would love to experiment more. Unfortunately there was limited time and we could only have our large group screens for the one day but the kodatraces will be kept so I can use them to create another screen to try out and experiment with unique colour combinations. I recognised that the colours of mine and my peers prints really changed the way the print looked. Prints with bolder colours really stood out to me and were much more striking.
Whilst mixing up my dyes for my individual colour way our 3 metre group print came out of the steamer and was ready to wash. Unfortunately the yellow on our print had speckled because the dye had not dissolved properly, we did try to overcome this by blending up the dye to break down the particles, we tested the dye. unfortunately is was only when the fabric was steamed, the speckles formed. This is an issue that probably could have been resolved by boiling the dye up too. Luckily, I found this out just before i printed my own colour way (which was using a similar yellow) I boiled up the dye on the hop and then blitzed it up with he had blended just to make sure!


My own colour way


Trying to prevent speckling in the yellow dye by dissolving the powder up by boiling and blending.

If I could do this again I would have filled the print up more so there were less spaces, using block colours as backgrounds behind drawings and using more abstract mark making drawing. Being part of a group meant that everyone had to input their ideas which meant not everyone's ideas were listed to entirely. Group work has taught me many things and I feel more confident and happy to be part of a team again.



Repeat print

Geo Print Illustrator: Technical

October 19, 2015

Quick visual research using pinterest and WGSN in preparation of our session with Robert


                                                                                                                                                                                                 Textiles Première Vision Designs S/S 16 – Print & Pattern 02.19.15 ... Première Vision Designs S/S 16 – Print & Pattern Retro Geos S/S 16 Textiles By Product Category ... are revived with retro geometric patterns  inspired by 1960s and 1970s fashion prints. Tricolour geos ...                                                                      


Further research of Mid century Geo prints, looking at Anni Albers' work. She was an American textile artist and printmaker. She produced tapestries, wall hangings, print works, wall covering designs and woven samples.
http://www.moma.org/collection/artists/96?locale=en
http://www.wgsn.com/content/board_viewer/#/138030/page/1


Using Robert's worksheet was helpful because I hadn't used Illustrator much before. I found it so simple to use and I can apply this skills I learnt today to further digital print work or designs created from my original work etc. I am so excited to do this- I just need to find some more time!!


colour

More Colour testing

October 19, 2015

Colour testing for my individual colour way was difficult this evening and I could not get the colours correct. The print room was packed and very busy we had to queue up to weigh and mix our dyes.
Because I was using our test screen there was block colour in some layers for the fill of the flowers, this meant that colours would overlap. For my personal colours this would not work. I was trying to test out the right yellow which would not be too similar to the salmon shade and compliment the other colours too. If it was too dark the salmon colour would not show up over the top and I found that it made a 'muddy' colour. I found creating consistent colours hard because the scales are inaccurate when weighing such small amounts of dye.

Colour testing, particularly yellow shades, trying antique gold, acid yellow and lemon yellow and mixing them together.

colour

Researching into Natural Dyes

October 14, 2015

I recognised that many of the samples from SADACC had been dyed using natural dyes, this is one of my main interests overall in textiles and I thought I could incorporate this in my work for Project 2. My knowledge on natural dye isn't brilliant so doing some research will really help me in achieving naturally dyed fabrics.

The Chemistry behind Natural Dyes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gwk1B66dvAM
Natural dyes and dyeing from woodland plants: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUS1uPn3vao
Natural dyes basics: http://www.pburch.net/dyeing/naturaldyes.shtml
Natural Dyeing: http://www.diynatural.com/natural-fabric-dyes/


*must buy Jenny Dean's 'Colours from Nature' book*- in the NUA library as well as 'Wild Colour'*

I want to further research if it is possible to print with natural dyes using a screen.
-is there a way of adding a paste to the dye to thicken?- UPDATE http://krex.k-state.edu/dspace/handle/2097/3899- Thickening madder???
-how does it apply if so?
-will the colour stay?
-how much hassle involved?
-is it more time consuming?

Substantive (direct) dyes
Substantive dyes are used by combining the dyestuff, normally the amount equal to or twice the amount of the weight of the fibre. Then it must be strained then simmered for a while. For example turmeric (working on cotton as well as wool), onion skins, walnut husks, and tea.

Vat Dyes
The vat dyes work the same way on protein and cellulose, by being introduced into the surface of the fibre while in soluble form and then converted into an insoluble form. The vat dyes include many synthetic dyes, but also the natural dye indigo, and the ancient Tyrian Purple dye taken from shellfish. They are complicated to use, needing the establishment of an oxygen-free fermentation.

Mordant Dyes
Most natural dyeing is done with the use of mordants, most commonly heavy metal ions, but sometimes tannins. Tannins are  important in dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibres. The mordant allows many natural dyes which would just wash. A mordant remains in the fibre permanently, holding in the dye. Each different metal (used as a mordant) produces a different range of colors for each dye.


https://www.pinterest.com/offsite/?token=448-526&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.motherearthliving.com%2Fin-the-garden%2Fgarden-ideas-grow-herbs-for-natural-dyes.aspx&pin=128282289357907277


technical

Illustrator Workshop: Technical

October 12, 2015

Robert's illustrator workshop helped me to quickly add colours and helped create shapes in different ways.  I will use illustrator more often now that I have used it properly and know how the tools work differently in contrast to Photoshop. 


technical

Digital Printing: technical

October 09, 2015

Digital printer:
Uses procion and acid dyes

Prints with dyes, steamed as washed as normal (intensifies colours)
A good quality image is needed on memory stick ready to print
Can only print with Neil on Tues/Weds/Thurs
Print has to cover width of fabric
Maximum 10 days turnover (at busiest
Can use photoshop/illustrator but AVA is best
AVA is a textile repeat software
Layers must be flattened and it must be saved as a TIF file
1 metre of printing takes 45 minutes and price varies on different fabrics

Possibilities:
Print on devore fabric
Linen creates a faded, aged look
Organza can be printed on
Print some intricate parts using digital but leave spaces blank to go in and hand print
Spray on water before steamed and set, add discharge paste?

Sublimation Printer:
Uses disperse dyes

Synthetic fibres
Print from any file, print onto 60 cm wide fabric and the heat press
£13= 1 metre


Artist/ Designer Research

October 09, 2015

I found a great book after searching in the library for books with pattern ideas etc in. The Experimental Pattern Sourcebook has great patterns from so many different artists that I have never come across before. This has given me a starting point for project 2 as it has given me some visual stimulus as well as given me artists to research further. I am fond of the fact that the artists are from different places around the world as this creates a diverse collection of artists for me to research which all have different styles and ideas.

Experimental pattern sourcebook : 300 inspired designs from around the world.  Herald, J. (2010) Experimental pattern sourcebook : 300 inspired designs from around the world. Beverly, Mass.: Rockport Publishers.


VÃ¥r

Interiors Project

SADACC visit and initial thoughts

October 08, 2015

NOTES FROM SADACC VISIT

Southern Pakistan 
Wedding shawls 
Stitched by women 
Forkari stitching (flower marks) 
Bag- garden 
Silk floss on cotton ground 
Groups of women stitching together 
Bokni hand embroidered (special occasions) 
Flowers get denser or wider (patience) 
Majority or embroidery pieces 
Wedding shawls -19th century 
Most collection is late 19th - 20th century 
Not all about historical interest
Contemporary crafts 

Bangladesh -kanfa work quilting 
Cashmere European shawls -Norwich and French 

South India- Kali hasti 
Pen work (Cala) 
Block printing and hand painting 
Islamic influence as well as South Indian 
Temple murals 
Wax resist and block printing repeat

Gojra bright colours printing and embroidery 
Sahri yarns are dyed before woven. Create coloured patterns 

Technique in small West Indian rogan hot oil and pigment dribbled on- repeat but not completely even 
Individual and not as commercial wobari women sheparding community- tie dye and dense embroidery 
Dhariwai embroidery banned too much time 
Using rick rack to create the same look but less time consuming 
Torans decorative banners- glass beads form Venice 

Rajasthan tell a story lighting with candle to view parts at night time 
Printing by groom and embroidered by bride 

Older textiles can't be touched 

Manchester print 
Lotus rust print
Several blocks used 

Paisley motif associated with Scottish production etc 
Natural dyes and natural processes 
Mud resist printing 

1821 gallery using Indian textiles as inspiration paper collages 
Hormazd narielwalla  from london 
PhD in fashion 
Hand cut patterns are thrown away when died 
Narrative and story about a lady who travelled form Paris to India- encounters she met on the way, layers of meaning 
Clothes and patterns as architectures- building hold bodies so does clothes 
Dress patterns collages and block prints with gold dust- looking through French woman patterns and India 
Negative space from patterns - scrap paper that pattern
Re contextualising them by making them into something else 
Clothes were actually made, remade into something else 







Indian textiles by John Gillow and Nicholas Barnard  Gillow, J. and Barnard, N. (2008) Indian textiles. [New edn.]. London: Thames & Hudson.

Banjar Embroidery
Eastern Sind- Saami (patchwork cotton quilt page 117)

Follow Amelia's board BANJARA EMBROIDERY on Pinterest. Follow Amelia's board DESIGN FOR INTERIORS PROJECT on Pinterest.

colour

Mini test screen printing session

October 06, 2015

Our group decided to trial out our print using our colours. We created a mini kodatrace collection for the 4 different colours. We found out different problems that occurred and were glad that we tested it out before the final 3 metre print on the 20th. We found that the colours work quite well, although they do not overlay to make a new colour (like yellow and blue would overlay and make a green) but not much overlaps anyway. They do not make muddy colours anyhow. We discovered that the flowers had a lot of fine detail which meant that the detail was lost when the dye was applied, the dye also bled a lot. This could have been down to the amount of pulls we did with the squeegee but we have adjusted our print design just in case. We changed the amount of lines we have in the flowers as the lines just merged into one 'splodge' of colour and the yellow block colour underneath was not visible. The line detail will be finer and more considered. 





colour

Colour testing

September 29, 2015


After an acid dye technical refresher with Yasmin in the print room our group had a space on the print table. This was to test out the colours we had agreed on and give ourself a chance and time to change or tweak the colours just in case they did not compliment or overlap pleasantly.
Our group on agreed on a light grey as mainly a background colour, a light yellow, a pop of orange and a dark blue/navy to act as an outline colour. All of these colours compliment each other nicely but we were unsure how they would look together, overlapped and in a design. Today we tested different tones and mixed multiple dyes up so get it just right. We are creating a mini screen using a portion of our design to put on 4 kodatraces to test what it will really look like. This is incase there are any unexpected issues or problems. We have booked the print room for Tuesday the 6th.


For colour inspiration for my group's colour way and my own, I have been using pinterest (below)

Follow Amelia's board COLOUR SCHEME on Pinterest.

Group Repeat Print Project

Finishing our repeat print design

September 28, 2015

On Friday we had trouble with the placement of our design, we agreed that we would individually work over the weekend to create less drawings but duplicate them in different sizes. This would mean that there were less variation of different drawings and less busyness of large objects. We had difficulty with large drawings that had thick lines as this would mean the repeat would be obvious and visible once it had been printed. 



Group Repeat Print Project

Print Group 5 Discussions

September 24, 2015

In our group, we are drawing individually so we can combine our drawings together, we will temporarily stick drawings down so we can create a mock design and change compositions. As a group, we have decided that we will draw from objects that have interested us over the last few days that link to a loose theme of nature.

- Lauren: jewellery, flowers,
- Amber: bees, honeycomb/nests and leaf printing
- Me: dreamcatcher feathers, shells
- Shiv: cactus texture, shells

We think the contrast between Lauren's geometric flowers and my marks from feathers and shells will look considered and interesting.
Using a combination of drawing strategies is really helping me create different marks. Drawing isn't my strongest skill but I find that working large and loose helps me with considering shape, line and texture.  Observational drawing has worked extremely well for me as I feel the pen does the work for me whilst I look at the object in detail (I need to use this technic throughout the year!).


TO DO:
Scan/photocopy/enlarge real honeycomb/bees nest and transfer that to tracing paper or kodatrace
Create a mini mock up of repeat design tomorrow (combining everyone's drawings)
Look into colour palettes as a group






Group Repeat Print Project

Kodatrace refresh

September 23, 2015

We were reminded as a group on how we can creatively apply line and shape to kodatrace in a quick 1 hour session. This helped me and reminded me how it doesn't just have to be black fine liner or chinagraph pencils.


Materials to use:
  • Photo opaque (variety of brushes and mark making tools)
  • Black paper
  • Posca pens
  • Oil pastel (rubbings/resists)
  • Graphite (rubbings)
  • Stitch with black thread
  • Lace/fabrics
  • Chinagraph
  • Acrylic paint
  • Hole punched paper

Alternatively to Kodatrace we can use tracing paper which is a cheaper option and still works in the exposing process. In this workshop we used both tracing paper and drafting film(Kodatrace). I found that the tracing paper did curl and crinkle a lot so I will only use this for drafts or mock up screens.


Group Repeat Print Project

Cut through repeat workshop

September 22, 2015

We began this workshop with drawing activities using our personal objects to draw from on A1 paper, using many drawing strategies:
Negative space
Texture
Line/shape
Tone/shadow
Blind drawing
Continuous line timed drawing

Using a variety of drawing strategies is really helping me find a style and forcing me to use different scales and unique techniques. I enjoy timed drawings to then subsequently add and work into them to create more considered, delicate marks. I want to build a sketch book using these techniques, layering different drawing techniques with tracing paper, acetate and contrasting textures.

Today we combined the groups drawings we did individually with bold black pen using different strategies to create a large A1 collage of line and shapes etc, filling in spaces with and marks from our objects to ensure it flowed. We then cut through the A1 collage in a wave. Ensuring the wave was not too dramatic or high to create the subtlest repeat as possible.


Make a Repeat Pattern in 60 Seconds

Make a Repeat Pattern in 60 Seconds with Julia RothmanFull Class → http://skl.sh/repeat-patterns

Posted by Skillshare on Friday, 16 October 2015

Group Repeat Print Project

Starting 2nd year

September 21, 2015

Today I started 2nd year Textiles and began drawing straight away. We were briefed on Ba2a and then started a drawing shop that informed us on repeat printing.
Using different drawing strategies like continuous line and timed drawing we observationally made drawings from decorative and vintage objects.
We had rules put in place:
-Black thick pen
-A1 paper
-Hold the pen with like a paint brush (loosely)
-Stand up and don't bend over the table when drawing
-Continuous line